Wednesday, December 8, 2010

The Water Here - Part 3: In the City and In the Air


Water in the City

One Saturday morning, I walked to the edge of the village, flagged down a bus, and was smuggled into the city. I don’t think I have ever been ‘smuggled’ anywhere before. It is a law that every passenger has a seat on the bus in order to pass the city gates; otherwise heavy fines are given to the bus operators. When my fellow workers and I got on the already full bus, instead of refusing paying customers, the driver’s wife pulled out short stools and had us sit, packed in the aisle, all squatting. Our heads only came up to the seated passengers’ shoulders, and in this way we were secretly transported past security and into the city.

I went to visit a friend who I met on my flight from Taiwan. I call him Monk, even though he isn’t truly one. He smells of incense, has a shaved head, eats vegetarian, and we talked the entire plane ride, mostly about his Buddhist philosophy. He isn’t a monk because he has a wife and kids back home and isn't living in a monastery, but on his extended trips to Kunming, he does live a monkish life. Turns out he worked as a water engineer for thirty years, and is now helping a friend promote a ceramic water filter that connects to the tap called a ceramic candle. He pulled one off his tap to show me, and it was all brown in color. It took only three days in Kunming to get that way and had to be scrubbed. In Taiwan, he said it only needed cleaning every three weeks. He was very interested in our ceramic water filters, and may be able to help us out by introducing them to people who may need them.

This past week, I left the factory and moved to the city. Our NGO has a new office, and attached to it is a basic apartment, where I have a small bedroom and kitchen. It is quite the change – moving from a small farming village to a high rise building complex. One place I feel the change is with the water situation. I don’t have to worry about having no hot water anymore, or long hours with no running water. However, the tap water that I have continuous access to now runs disgustingly brown for a good five seconds each time it is turned on. I’m thinking we need to give Monk a call… The change greatest I feel, however, is now suddenly living and mostly eating alone. 

If there is just one thing
As vital as water that’s clean,
It could possibly be
Having good company.

Water in the Air

One thing that has not changed with my move from the village is the amount of water in the air: none whatsoever. Kunming is called the City of Eternal Spring because it is basically one season all year round, much like Southern California. Similarly here, chapped hands and lips know the dryness always. But at this altitude, when water does get in the air and there is rain or a fog, the previously dry air cools quickly. It becomes very cold, and in these times it is said that Winter pays a brief visit.

In recent weeks I’ve finally started visiting some extremely poor villages. So stay tuned - in Part 4, I’ll write about these projects and give you the lowdown.

3 comments:

  1. Hello Philip!

    I've just finished catching up on your blogs (too long neglected) and am overwhelmed by their immediacy. Each is a compelling narrative not only of your experiences, but also of the world you encounter along the way. As only good writing can do, each transports me. Reading them serially, I was disappointed to reach this most current post and not have yet another to enjoy. I will definitely be awaiting your further adventures! (I hope you don't mind if I've placed a link to your blog in *my* infant blog.)

    FYI, we've acquired a new swimmer on the FAST Masters team: a 30-year old Argentine named Joaquin. He once swam for their national team and is a fast as anyone I've seen in our training pool. Needless to say, he and Brian have necessitated a reallocation of now much slower swimmers to other lanes. Getting lapped by those guys is like being run over by trucks!

    I look forward to reading your future posts, Philip, and wish you the best of good fortune (of which you've encountered plenty to-date). My best thoughts are with you.

    /Kent

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  2. Well... we miss you too! You're good company -Emily

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  3. It's great to hear from you, Kent. I'm really glad you're enjoying the posts! I will check out your blog as well.

    Being away, one thing I miss most is swimming masters, particularly in Ft. Worth. Of all the places I regularly swam masters - UCLA (Los Angeles), SCAQ (SoCal), ASU (Phoenix), and DAM (Dallas), FAST was my favorite and by far the most welcoming.

    Please say hello to Ric and everyone for me!

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